You have your new hive home! It is in one deep or what we call the brood chamber. It also has a feeder in it. What you’ll need to do is remove that feeder and add in a couple empty frames from your second deep you received from me. You will then place that feeder in your second deep and go ahead and put that on your first deep. You are now sitting 2 deeps tall and are ready to feed your hive.
1:1 – Take an old milk jug and rinse it out. Fill it ½ the way with sugar. (You will need a funnel of some kind to get the sugar in this jug.) It’s easier if you find something with a wider mouth to get the sugar into it. The rest of the gallon jug will be filled with warm water and you will shake it vigorously. Basically until you see no sugar crystals as they have all dissolved into the warm water. This is your feed.
If the bees don’t eat it, try sweetening it up a with a 2:1 ratio. This would be ¾ full of sugar and ¼ of water. You can also do a 2:1 ratio with water being the 2. Meaning 1/4th sugar and 3/4th water.
Why are you feeding bees? Because they have to draw out all those empty frames by covering them in beeswax. It takes 6-8 pounds of honey (sugar water) for them to create 1 pound of wax.
You are NOT ready for any other boxes at this time, just the 2 deeps. If your second deep fills up by mid-June, you can then place your queen excluder and your first super.
I talked briefly in class about running 9 frames in my honey supers. You can do that, or run all 10. That’s totally up to you.
Why don’t you just give them all 4 boxes? Because that’s too much empty space for bees to defend against hive beetles or other pests like ants, spiders, etc..
Your hives have all been treated. We discussed briefly about mite treatment methods. It’s important for you to find one that works for you. I blogged about my methods in the previous blog.
Hive beetles – haven’t seen a lot myself yet this year. I have big strong colonies right now and that definitely helps.
Keep your mite counts low, keep them fed and make sure you see those eggs once a week to two times a month and you’ll have more fun this year with your new bees!!
Finally, I want to say it really upset me that I couldn’t finish the second class yesterday and I had to cancel the 3rd class. I really wanted to give you all this information before you left.
We are looking at 06/07 at 9am for the makeup class. This is for those of you that arrived at 11 on 05/30 and we basically just loaded you up. Please contact me for confirmation that you are coming, and I’m going to be emailing all of you as well.
I’m going to tell you what I do to treat for mites.
My method was developed over a couple years of being a complete failure at it. I’m not one of those beekeepers who acts like I know everything about everything. I’m the beekeeper who will tell you that I’ve pretty much made every mistake you can imagine in keeping bees. Maybe that’s just how I learn?
Year one, I decided I wasn’t going to treat for mites at all. It was overwhelming thinking of putting chemicals into my hives. I lost every one of my hives. They all absconded. Absconded is when the whole hive leaves, not ½ the hive in a swarm. Hives absconding is also called the dreaded colony collapse disorder. At least that’s what I think CCD is!
The next year, I decided to just hang Apivar strips one time for 42 days and just one treatment for the whole year. I was able to keep a good 1/4th alive with this method.
I never did the sugar roll or the alcohol wash. I figured the mites are there, what’s the point?
This year I decided I was really going to step up my mite treatment big time! I ordered mite away quick strips (MAQ) and an oxalic acid vaporizer.
The MAQ strips never showed up. I kept getting told they were on back order. By the time my supplier said they could ship them, it was too late. If you hang these strips in your hive and the temperature exceeds 85, it can kill your entire hive.
I did an OA blast early in Spring, but only one treatment. So, what now?
I have supers on a couple of my hives. I’m going to wait for the flow to be over, remove all supers and do an oxalic acid treatment once a week for 3 weeks. I’ll do a mite count before and after the 3 treatments.
In order to get the most effective mite count, I will do the alcohol wash. I know it'll kill some bees, but killing some for the sake of the whole colony is something I can live with.
I will not provide instructions on how to use the vapor gun in this blog. Please do some research on this. It’s important you learn how to apply this treatment safely. After that, I’ll hang apivar strips for 42 days.
I want to kill all the mites present on the bees bodies, (OA does this) and the mites sucking the juice out of the pupea inside the capped brood cell, (Strips do this) The strips hang for 42 days, which will cover 2 life cycles of a bee being born.
If you decide to be treatment free, I’m not going to judge you. Your bees are yours and you can do whatever you feel is right by them. I know a few beekeepers who are treatment free and do very well at it.
If you join a bee club you will find beekeepers that do things very different than me and each other. It's important to figure out what works best for you and your bees.
This has been a crazy year for swarms! I’ve had close to 100 calls about “swarms.” I want to talk about why I put that word in quotation marks.
When you see a cluster - or ball of bees - hanging in a tree, on a fence, or any other place where you can clearly see the bees are not living inside of something, that is a swarm. That is an easy pickup for any beekeeper, and most will come pickup the bees for free. If the beekeeper wants to charge you for an easy swarm capture, call someone else. And, please don’t ask the beekeeper for money for the swarm. We don’t pay you, unless it’s a bottle of honey for the call.
When you have bees living inside the wall of your home, that is no longer a swarm situation. That is what we call a cut-out. This requires a professional, licensed contractor to remove this hive. If someone offers to do it for free, that's between y'all. I don't want the liability myself, but to each their own! :)
I’ve heard so many times over the years, “well, I sprayed the ones I saw” or “I plugged up their entrance/exit.” Let’s talk about why those are bad and/or ineffective methods.
If you spray the ones you saw, that only kills the ones you saw. There are thousands more potentially living inside your wall. Bees build hives, and they aren’t typically tiny. Think about the length of a tree, their natural habitat. I’ve seen a hive built in about ¾ the length of a tree before.
If you block their entrance and exit, they’ll just find another one. Or, they’ll die and leave behind a mess that will have negative side effects like honey dripping through your wall, or vermin or other insects damaging your home, not to mention a foul odor.
Please call a professional. Midwest Bee Removal is my recommendation. 816-217-4214. I’ve actually added his information to my voicemail because I’m getting so many “swarm” calls.
Finally, let me say this, for the record. If the bees are living inside a tree, leave them alone. Let them bee! Unless you are worried because you are allergic, let them do their thing. We need to share this planet with all living creatures.
Several years ago, my husband and I decided to get a saltwater tank. We started doing a lot of research after we purchased a used aquarium at a garage sale. We found 2 places within 30 minutes of our house that sold saltwater fish. We visited these places often and spent a lot of money.
We’d ask a couple questions each time we visited, but all questions accompanied a purchase. In the 2 years we had the saltwater tank, we never once called them at the store to ask a question. It’s a lot of work keeping an entire store of small animals clean and safe, so we understood they were very busy.
Every fish was researched before we purchased it. Every coral or anemone was researched before we purchased it. We even built a refugium to help cycle the water.
Basically, we did our due diligence in caring for this amazing saltwater tank.
In the process of visiting one of these stores more than the other, we got to know the owner’s names and vice versa. While we had friendly comradery, we knew the expectation was that we would make our purchase and come back when there was another purchase to be made.
Why am I rambling on and on about this experience?
Because this bee business doesn't seem to have realistic expectations or boundaries. This is 100% my fault. I’ve been under this impression that in order to be a successful small business owner, you need to be available every single minute of your life. This is not true.
I love that people want to start beekeeping. I think it is a very important and rewarding hobby. But, it’s your hobby, not “our hobby”. The bees belong to you once you leave my driveway.
This doesn’t mean I won’t answer a couple questions here and there. But the expectation that I am going to be available to you for the whole summer and fall is unrealistic.
Your purchase of a nuc, hive or kit, doesn’t come with an unlimited amount of my time. Just like when I bought a $100 new fish, I didn’t expect the saltwater store owners to answer questions about that fish for months.
I offer paid consultations, if you are within 30 minutes of Belton, MO. If you have several questions, we need to set one of these consultations up. If you live outside the 30-minute parameter, we can set up a facetime consultation. $25 for a ½ hour on the phone.
It’s time to do a reset for The Kansas Bee Company and set up some realistic expectations and boundaries.
Thank you for your understanding!
Here are my top 3 ways to keep a beehive alive!!
FEED YOUR BEES!
I tell everyone at pickups – feed, feed, feed! It takes 6-8 pounds of honey being consumed for the bees to create 1 pound of wax. The more you feed, the faster your NUC or Single will grow.
Sugar/water ratio is 1:1. But, if the bees are not eating this ratio, go to 2:1, with 2 being water. I have a hive that will not eat 2:1 but will eat 1:1 and vice versa. I do not believe feeding is an exact science, but a lot of other beekeepers would disagree. They will tell you certain ratios promote comb production or a queen to start laying. If the bees do not eat any variation of sugar water, and are bringing in their own honey, stop feeding them.
Check your feeder every few days to start, to get an idea of how fast your hive eats their food. Asking me how often to check a feeder is irrelevant. Your bees may eat their food faster or slower than mine.
I feed my bees Pro Health. It’s expensive, but it prevents fermentation of the sugar water from happening as fast. Here’s a great recipe if you want to make it at home: https://www.funnybugbees.com/bee-nutrition-blog/honey-bee-healthy-recipe
CHECK FOR EGGS!
I check my hives twice a month for eggs. I’m going to suggest that you check yours once a week for a while. If your eyesight isn’t what it used to be, take a picture of a frame and blow it up on your phone to see the eggs. I do this on cloudier days as it’s easier to see eggs when the sun is out. Why are you looking for eggs? Because you are new and haven’t mastered how to inspect without possibly crushing the queen or rolling her off a frame. It’s nothing to freak out over, but you definitely want to check for eggs.
KEEP YOUR MITE COUNTS LOW!
I’m not going to blog about mites right now. That will be later in the year. I highly suggest you research how mites reproduce. Joining a bee club is an awesome way of learning beekeeping. Our club meets once a month and we devote an entire meeting to treating for mites. Cass County Bee Club in Harrisonville, Missouri. Hopefully, we can start meeting again soon! Please go to the CCBC tab on this website for info!
I'm happy to answer your questions, but I can't diagnose everything over the phone. If you have several questions, I am going to suggest a paid consultation. If you are within 30 minutes of Belton, Missouri, my fee is $100.00 a visit. The best way to get hold of me is through text. Especially once pickups are over...as I will only check email sparsely at that point. Please keep in mind that I work, have a husband, a home and my own bees to care for. Thank you!
Christine's Bee Blog!