You have your new hive home! It is in one deep or what we call the brood chamber. It also has a feeder in it. What you’ll need to do is remove that feeder and add in a couple empty frames from your second deep you received from me. You will then place that feeder in your second deep and go ahead and put that on your first deep. You are now sitting 2 deeps tall and are ready to feed your hive.
1:1 – Take an old milk jug and rinse it out. Fill it ½ the way with sugar. (You will need a funnel of some kind to get the sugar in this jug.) It’s easier if you find something with a wider mouth to get the sugar into it. The rest of the gallon jug will be filled with warm water and you will shake it vigorously. Basically until you see no sugar crystals as they have all dissolved into the warm water. This is your feed.
If the bees don’t eat it, try sweetening it up a with a 2:1 ratio. This would be ¾ full of sugar and ¼ of water. You can also do a 2:1 ratio with water being the 2. Meaning 1/4th sugar and 3/4th water.
Why are you feeding bees? Because they have to draw out all those empty frames by covering them in beeswax. It takes 6-8 pounds of honey (sugar water) for them to create 1 pound of wax.
You are NOT ready for any other boxes at this time, just the 2 deeps. If your second deep fills up by mid-June, you can then place your queen excluder and your first super.
I talked briefly in class about running 9 frames in my honey supers. You can do that, or run all 10. That’s totally up to you.
Why don’t you just give them all 4 boxes? Because that’s too much empty space for bees to defend against hive beetles or other pests like ants, spiders, etc..
Your hives have all been treated. We discussed briefly about mite treatment methods. It’s important for you to find one that works for you. I blogged about my methods in the previous blog.
Hive beetles – haven’t seen a lot myself yet this year. I have big strong colonies right now and that definitely helps.
Keep your mite counts low, keep them fed and make sure you see those eggs once a week to two times a month and you’ll have more fun this year with your new bees!!
Finally, I want to say it really upset me that I couldn’t finish the second class yesterday and I had to cancel the 3rd class. I really wanted to give you all this information before you left.
We are looking at 06/07 at 9am for the makeup class. This is for those of you that arrived at 11 on 05/30 and we basically just loaded you up. Please contact me for confirmation that you are coming, and I’m going to be emailing all of you as well.
This has been a crazy year for swarms! I’ve had close to 100 calls about “swarms.” I want to talk about why I put that word in quotation marks.
When you see a cluster - or ball of bees - hanging in a tree, on a fence, or any other place where you can clearly see the bees are not living inside of something, that is a swarm. That is an easy pickup for any beekeeper, and most will come pickup the bees for free. If the beekeeper wants to charge you for an easy swarm capture, call someone else. And, please don’t ask the beekeeper for money for the swarm. We don’t pay you, unless it’s a bottle of honey for the call.
When you have bees living inside the wall of your home, that is no longer a swarm situation. That is what we call a cut-out. This requires a professional, licensed contractor to remove this hive. If someone offers to do it for free, that's between y'all. I don't want the liability myself, but to each their own! :)
I’ve heard so many times over the years, “well, I sprayed the ones I saw” or “I plugged up their entrance/exit.” Let’s talk about why those are bad and/or ineffective methods.
If you spray the ones you saw, that only kills the ones you saw. There are thousands more potentially living inside your wall. Bees build hives, and they aren’t typically tiny. Think about the length of a tree, their natural habitat. I’ve seen a hive built in about ¾ the length of a tree before.
If you block their entrance and exit, they’ll just find another one. Or, they’ll die and leave behind a mess that will have negative side effects like honey dripping through your wall, or vermin or other insects damaging your home, not to mention a foul odor.
Please call a professional. Midwest Bee Removal is my recommendation. 816-217-4214. I’ve actually added his information to my voicemail because I’m getting so many “swarm” calls.
Finally, let me say this, for the record. If the bees are living inside a tree, leave them alone. Let them bee! Unless you are worried because you are allergic, let them do their thing. We need to share this planet with all living creatures.
Here are my top 3 ways to keep a beehive alive!!
FEED YOUR BEES!
I tell everyone at pickups – feed, feed, feed! It takes 6-8 pounds of honey being consumed for the bees to create 1 pound of wax. The more you feed, the faster your NUC or Single will grow.
Sugar/water ratio is 1:1. But, if the bees are not eating this ratio, go to 2:1, with 2 being water. I have a hive that will not eat 2:1 but will eat 1:1 and vice versa. I do not believe feeding is an exact science, but a lot of other beekeepers would disagree. They will tell you certain ratios promote comb production or a queen to start laying. If the bees do not eat any variation of sugar water, and are bringing in their own honey, stop feeding them.
Check your feeder every few days to start, to get an idea of how fast your hive eats their food. Asking me how often to check a feeder is irrelevant. Your bees may eat their food faster or slower than mine.
I feed my bees Pro Health. It’s expensive, but it prevents fermentation of the sugar water from happening as fast. Here’s a great recipe if you want to make it at home: https://www.funnybugbees.com/bee-nutrition-blog/honey-bee-healthy-recipe
CHECK FOR EGGS!
I check my hives twice a month for eggs. I’m going to suggest that you check yours once a week for a while. If your eyesight isn’t what it used to be, take a picture of a frame and blow it up on your phone to see the eggs. I do this on cloudier days as it’s easier to see eggs when the sun is out. Why are you looking for eggs? Because you are new and haven’t mastered how to inspect without possibly crushing the queen or rolling her off a frame. It’s nothing to freak out over, but you definitely want to check for eggs.
KEEP YOUR MITE COUNTS LOW!
I’m not going to blog about mites right now. That will be later in the year. I highly suggest you research how mites reproduce. Joining a bee club is an awesome way of learning beekeeping. Our club meets once a month and we devote an entire meeting to treating for mites. Cass County Bee Club in Harrisonville, Missouri. Hopefully, we can start meeting again soon! Please go to the CCBC tab on this website for info!
I'm happy to answer your questions, but I can't diagnose everything over the phone. If you have several questions, I am going to suggest a paid consultation. If you are within 30 minutes of Belton, Missouri, my fee is $100.00 a visit. The best way to get hold of me is through text. Especially once pickups are over...as I will only check email sparsely at that point. Please keep in mind that I work, have a husband, a home and my own bees to care for. Thank you!